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Modelling How To…
How To Ballast Track
Compilation of answers from OxNGM members.
Original question, from Ian.
“Probably the first of many questions as I add scenery. What ballast do
you use please?”
Jeff:
Light grey blend (from Legacy), I think it was on offer as I wouldn’t pay recommended retail. Also ‘Woodland Scenics’ iron ore and coal for effects. I have one of those applicator things but found it easier with a teaspoon and small brush. When happy with the look, I mist it with dilute isopropyl alcohol to reduce surface tension then use a large pipette to douse the track with a mix of 50% PVA 50% water and a drop of washing up liquid.
However, before all this I spray the track with sleeper grime RailMatch 1406 then scrub the tops of the rails with a track rubber. (use blutack to mask the point blades).
Again, after gluing down the ballast scrub railhead again with a track rubber when dry,
Between every stage I use an old wagon to check clearances. A small vacuum comes in handy.
Alec:
I use Woodland Scenics. I would go for the N gauge size as 00 is sometimes too large. I glue it down with diluted Copydex as it dries rubbery and does not transmit noise so much and it’s easier to remove from delicate places.
I would not use real granite as I believe it can go green when glued.
I use an old salt pot with the hole enlarged slightly to put the ballast on.
Roger:
Here's something that's not often true, but works remarkably well in model form; "Ballast is never all one colour."
On modern railways ballasting is done in huge lengths all from one quarry, so all looks the same. However, in model form I use a blend of three colours, buff, light grey and (a little) brown. I mix up a blend I like and keep it labelled so I have some back for repairs or changes.
Tanworthy was first airbrushed with Tamiya Olive Drab, the railheads cleaned off within 10 minutes. Point work I masked off, then hand painted with a fine brush. You think Peco sleepers are an OK colour until the Olive Drab dries, deliciously matt and dirty. You can rail-rust the rail sides if you must, but it's hardly necessary; Olive Drab draws less attention to our over-scale rail height.
Yards and sidings were ballasted with a different mix, more "Gray", like they'd been there for ever.
Tip: when blending ballast make it a bit lighter than you think is real. Beware dark
colours; they are too intense. Remember
1 you'll be adding glue and water, which deepen the colour;
2 you'll be viewing them from a scale 100-200 yards away, which makes
colours slightly less intense.
I ballast with PVA 40%, water 60%, and one drop only of washing-up liquid. Before gluing I mist-spray the ballast (dirty water & again 1 drop WUL. Don't dirty the water with Stephens Black Ink - it's green!); then dribble on the PVA. I respect the Copydex method but am determined my track is going nowhere.
Stephen:
An article done time ago suggested that ballast gets darker as locos pass over it. So that could be a dark ballast mix for main lines, slightly darker for in stations, especially where locos stop, then lighter grey for frequently used sidings, darker with some green sawdust for less frequent sidings as they will probably have been down longer and weathered more ;-)
Yes, you can paint, but then you lose the aspect of each chipping being a slightly different colour.
Barry:
I agree about using N gauge ballast, Woodland Scenics for me last for many modules, spreading using the spoon and brush method. As the L&B was more ‘mainline’ I put masking tape on each side of the track for a straighter look. I recently
tried some Deluxe ballast Magic, works well, but is probably only PVA, water and washing up liquid. Before ballasting I spray the viewing side of the rail with Halfords Camouflage matt brown, I use masking tape to stop paint getting onto point blades etc. I then spray from above the sleepers with a matt grey, then clean the rail tops and inside tops.
For sidings I have used a fine black cinders ballast. I then use ‘Geoscenics’ ballast dirt wash, I bought a large bottle so if you want some let me know and I will bring it along to the next Sibford, bring your own bottle? I use ‘Geoscenics’ oil solution for where locos stand in the platform and shed areas.
John:
I apply my ballast ready mixed with glue, with a screwdriver. Therapeutic (i.e. it takes a while). Hamster wash grain from pet shops is good. £4 for a very large container. It’s brown. I paint my ballast with several washes, very diluted. Gives a variegated colour, and fills some of the gaps between stones, like the prototype. The more paint you add, the older the ballast looks. Just slop it on.
paint is magic…